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On
the border of Yi Autonomous County in Ninglang in Yunnan Province and
Yanyuan County in Sichuan Province, there is a plateau lake called Lugu
Lake. Formed by the downthrows of a geological fault, Lugu Lake is the
highest and the second deepest lake in Yunnan. It is known around the
world not only for its beautiful natural scenery, but also because it
is home to a unique matriarchate well-preserved by the indigenous Mosuo
people, who are a branch of the Naxi (also spelt Nakhi and Nahi) ethnic
minority group.
Lugu Lake is 300 kilometers (186 miles) away from Lijiang Old Town and
76 kilometers (47 miles) away from Ninglang County. With an altitude of
2,685 meters (8,809 feet) and an area of 52 square kilometers (12,480
acres), the average depth of the lake is 40 meters (131 feet) and the
deepest point is 93.5 meters (307 feet). Embraced by the mountains, Lugu
Lake had been isolated from the world until the 1970s. It is a fairyland
which has never been exploited and polluted.
Lugu Lake is long and narrow, like a hoof filled with limpid water. Five
small forested islands are interspersed across the surface, three of which
are in Yunnan precinct. The smallest island is called Lige Island, and
there are only eight Mosuo families living on it. Another island, called
Chieftain Island, was named because Ayunshan, the chieftain of Yongning
Village, had built a villa and lived here until his death in the Guangxu
period of the Qing Dynasty. Simultaneously, Joseph Rock, an Austrian writer
who was his friend, wrote part of the Ancient Nakhi Kingdom of South-west
China (Harvard University Press, 1947) on this island. Liwubi Island,
which lies three kilometers (one point nine miles) away from Chieftain
Island, is actually a small peninsula extended into the lake by the Holy
Gemu Mountain. The mountain is also called Lion Mountain, for it looks
like a lion drinking water beside the lake. Mosuo people believe that
a beautiful and kind goddess named Gemu lives on the mountain and blesses
the residents at all times. A great sacrificial rite is held to worship
the goddess on July 25th of each lunar year at the foot of Gemu Mountain.
As
one of the remaining matriarchal societies - which can be counted on one's
fingers - Mosuo people and their customs are living fossils in a sense.
In every family, according to the traditions of the matriarchate, women
have the most important roles and they take on all the responsibilities
of the families and the village. Children take the mothers' family names
and live with their mothers. The relationship between the Mosuo lovers
is called "Axia" instead of marriage in the common society.
When the youth have gone through a Maturity Ceremony at the age of 13,
they are permitted to choose their own Axia. Official procedures or documents
are not needed here and the retaining time of this Axia relationship is
based on the lovers' wishes.
Countless cultural sites and types of natural scenery make Lugu Lake an
ideal tourist attraction: characteristic Mosuo villages, the Chieftain's
Palace, the Zhamei Lamaism Temple, Yongning Hot Springs, the underground
maze, Lucky Cave - and the most enjoyable things on the lake, which are
the pretty and tender Mosuo girls, the ancient style canoes and the fair
- sounding fishing songs. How can we resist a wondrous destination like
Lugu Lake?
Admission Fee: RMB 135
Recommended Time for a Visit: One day (we suggest you stay 2 nights there,
you can visit the local family, enjoy a fire party)
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