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The
center of the old Lhasa, Barkhor is a circular street, which is the oldest
street in Lhasa and remains very traditional. It is a place where Tibetan
culture, economy, religion and arts assemble and a place to which a visit
must be paid. It was said that in the seventh century when Songtsen Gampo,
the first Tibetan King (617 or ?-650) who unified Tibet, married Chinese
Princess Wencheng and Nepal princess Tritsun. Later Princess Tritsun built
Jokhang Temple to accommodate the Jowo Sakyamuni aged 12 brought to Tibet
by Princess Wencheng. Barkhor is the road which pilgrims tramped out around
Jokhang Temple through centuries. Buddhist pilgrims walk or progress by
body-lengths along the street clockwise every day into deep night. They
comprise most of Lhasa's floating population. Careful visitors may find
there are 4 columns, on which colorful scripture streamers are hung flying
over the street. All pilgrims walk outside of them to show respect. The
custom started in Tubo period (633-877). To the west of the north street
of Barkhor, there is a juniper hearth, in front of which ceremony will
be held annually to hail Maitreya (Buddha of the Future). Tibetans also
pray before the hearth to expect fortune in the next year. A yamun, which
used to be the office of Lhasa magistrate, squats nearby. A small lane
northward nearby leads to a market, which has longest history in Lhasa.
There is a three-story temple, which was set up in the Tubo period, and
its pantheon still remains Tubo style after many renovations. It was said
that Tibetan characters were invented in the temple. Barkhor, the sacred
pilgrim path, is also a marketplace where shaggy nomads, traders, robed
monks and chanting pilgrims join together. Shops and stalls, clustering,
sell printed scriptures, cloth prayer flags and other religious vessels,
jewelry, Tibetan knives, ancient coins and etc.
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